You are currently browsing the daily archive for November 19, 2009.
July 4, 2006…Shanghai boasts that it has the tallest buildings in all of China and will soon have finished the largest building in the world, yet when you turn your head from the huge, modern crane towering above you, what a surprise it is to see a huge pile of bamboo scaffolding in the corner of the construction site, patiently waiting for someone to use it! Intermingled between the steel beams and metal are rows of bamboo scaffolding tied up rather randomly with some tired looking grey duct tape and some random colored cording, yet it does look surprisingly strong, secure and safe. Not sure whether I would feel comfortable 6 stories up walking across that scaffolding!
We were spending the day exploring the many historical and cultural sites of Shanghai, lots of walking which gives one a real sense of life in this amazing city. As we stopped to wait for a traffic light, I looked to the right and stopped for a few moments to watch a few construction workers, working in an empty construction lot lodged between two skyscrapers. The two workers were moving a pile of wooden rubble from one section of the lot to another. There were no gloves on their hands and they were using no machinery, just their hands, picking up the debris one piece at a time. They must not have been concerned about cutting their hands or getting slivers because their hands were exposed. I never even work in my flower garden without gloves for fear of bacteria and cuts. They were a young man and a young woman in their twenties working side by side, no hurry, just working till the job was done, while the crane moved slowly up above. I couldn’t imagine anyone in our country not using tools, or a wheel barrow or some piece of equipment to move the pile. It’s so ironic to see Shanghai, a city that has hosts the most cranes in the world, yet they still hold onto their simple ways and techniques for getting a job done. The age old traditions of the past are everywhere in Shanghai, evenly dispersed with the current trends and technological advances. Amidst the new construction, the towering skyscrapers, the cranes and the bamboo, one can still see the vivid domestic chores that the people in Shanghai still face, the laundry! The people here still dry their clothing on hangers along the edges of windows, over the doorways and along the molding of the building. Yes, there is even laundry hanging along the bamboo scaffolding as the crane slowly moves by!
Yes, all the images we brought with us to Shanghai could not have prepared me for the beauty of this city! Yes, I expected the neon lights, the flashing glitzy signs, the congested streets, the smoke filled rooms but was welcomed instead with the Bund, a beautiful Shanghai that had peacefulness to it. Yes, the lights were flashing brightly at night, lots of tiny bright, blue lights, like the kind we might use to decorate our Christmas trees here in the states. These tiny glistening lights were strung across rows and rows of trees, lining the streets. The neon lights were flashing everywhere, yet there was peacefulness as I watched the barges gently floating along the Huangpu River and the people stopping along the promenade to stop and chat, taking in the cities beauty. On my first full day in Shanghai, I woke up at 3:30 Am, awake and ready to start my day! Yes, I was still suffering from jet lag, but there was no fighting it any longer, I had to get up. Our group of twenty or so educators from the United States, all traveling together for a 3 week study tour, was staying at the infamous Peace Hotel, across the street from the Bund, the spectacular promenade that runs alongside the Huangpu River. My roommate was still fast asleep, how I envied her. I rolled out of bed, turned the desk lamp on and began a letter to my husband. I had overheard several women in our group last night discussing an early morning jog along the Bund, planning to meet at 5:30AM in the lobby. I was anxious to get outside and stroll around the city before our group began its day of excursions so I dressed in exercise clothing and went down to the sleepy lobby. There was no activity in the lobby, just a bellhop have asleep in a large cushioned chair, stationed by the front door. I walked around the lobby for a while and poked my head out the front door, but no one else was around. The street was coming alive, people walking by, cars in traffic, so I decided to venture out the front door and look around at the corner. I could see the Bund, just on the other side of the street, bustling at 5:45AM with people. Since the women in my group had obviously overslept I decided to venture on myself, crossing the street when the traffic had briefly stopped and running up the steps to the Bund. It was still so early in the morning, I expected to see maybe a few straggling joggers, but was I wrong. The Bund was alive! It was filled with people, enjoying the cool air of the morning, jogging, walking, flying kites, and exercising. But the people weren’t only the youth like we’d see in America, those in their 20′s, stealing some exercise before heading to work, instead they were middle-aged, yes, over 50! There were many different activities going on, from Tai Chi, to kite flying, to moms pushing strollers to ballroom dancing. Yes, ballroom dancing on the Bund at 5:45 Am! I found myself stopping and watching the myriad of activities going on. This was not what I had expected! I sat on a low brick wall and watched several couples ballroom dancing while the boon box placed on the ground close by, softly played. I had never seen such beauty and peace in the center of a bustling city, dancing on the sidewalk. I was smiling, taking it all in, when a woman about 50 walked away from the music and extended her hand to me, inviting me to dance with her. I laughed and accepted her initiation and we danced, arm in arm, along the Bund. I was nervous and felt like I had 3 feet, occasionally stepping on her small feet, but I felt alive! I ran up the steps to see what else the Bund had to offer. This time I found a group of woman, various ages, working out in a large oval group, to again a blasting boon box, strategically placed in the middle of the sidewalk. I stood over to the side, smiling, watching, so happy to see these woman enjoying the beauty of the morning when again, a woman left the group and motioned me to join them. I stood towards the back and tried hard to follow the aerobic like moves they were doing. For years and years, through the late 70’s and 80’s I had gone to the gym and done various aerobic classes, so I decided to step into the group and try. I again felt so alive! Here we were virtual strangers, beginning our day together, no language just movement. I loved it when they started passing out various props for various songs. My favorite prop was the red fan, twisting my wrist back and forth across my body, opening and closing the fan to the beat! Exhilarating! I had never done anything like this before, it was beautiful and magical even though I really didn’t know what I was doing but I was trying and loving every single moment!
At one point I looked over and saw several of the women who were part of our American group, watching our aerobic-like dance. They had all finally got up and out and were too exploring the Bund’s activities this beautiful morning. One of the woman said’ hey, there’s Susan’. They turned, they looked and then they all smiled. I waved and waved them all to join us, but no one did. I felt such an inner joy and a deep peaceful connection to the Chinese people. We hadn’t needed to speak but to move our bodies, gracefully, feeling the beat and letting all inhibitions run free. Delightful!
It was getting close to 7:30AM and I knew I needed to get back to the hotel, to shower and to grab some quick breakfast. This time, I bounced down the steps and headed towards the edge of the boulevard, crossing when there was a break in the traffic. The smile on my face was embedded and I was sure everyone could see how happy I was. I entered the Peace Hotel, took the elevator up to our floor and walked in my room. My roommate Kathy asked me ‘where have you been? I’ve been worried’. I looked at her and told her of one of the best mornings of my life, how I experienced Shanghai that morning. She laughed and laughed. Although I had just meet Kathy hours ago, we too bonded that day and for the next three weeks she became a very dear friend, a confidant, and someone I shared many of my favorite moments in China with. She has a kind, gentle spirit and a contagious laugh. People often ask me how I can travel for weeks at a time on a fellowship or grant with strangers. I always tell them that most of the people I’ve met over the last ten years have a drive, a desire to venture on and explore, and they are often filled too with great spirits and gentle understandings. I can honestly say that most of the time I have been very blessed and have treasured the many educators that I’ve traveled with and gotten to know. Like me they too are on a quest!
